FRAMED WITH WONDER

Robin Kory

Aspiring Photographer, Traveler at Heart

Almabtrieb Magic in Austria: An Overnight in Pertisau am Achensee and Reith im Alpbachtal

Sailboats floating on Lake Achensee with the mountains behind, Pertisau, Tyrol.
White village church with tall spire set against rocky mountains in Tyrol, Austria.
Flower-decked Wagnerhof chalet in Pertisau with snowy mountains in the distance.
Close portrait of a decorated dairy cow wearing a floral wreath and brass bell during Almabtrieb in Tyrol.
Decorated dairy cows with green and pink floral headdresses and bells during Almabtrieb in Tyrol.
Karwendel peak rising above garden greenery in Pertisau am Achensee, Tyrol.
Vitalberg Café with waterwheel in Pertisau, Tyrol.
Traditional alpine hotel “Karwendel” with flowered balconies below sunlit Karwendel peaks in Pertisau am Achensee, Tyrol.
Alpine hotel with flower-filled balconies beneath snowcapped Karwendel peaks in Pertisau am Achensee, Tyrol.
Garlanded dairy cows with large bells in a meadow; village and snowcapped mountains near Pertisau.

I recently shared our rain-soaked day at Switzerland’s Désalpe de Charmey—muddy boots and all. This trip was the sunny contrast: a fun, easy overnight with the Stuttgart Community Spouses’ Club (SCSC) to Pertisau am Achensee and Reith im Alpbachtal in Tyrol, Austria (spelled “Tirol” in German; I’ll use “Tyrol” here). Bells rang, flowers bobbed on ornate headdresses, and villages turned out to welcome the herds home from summer pastures—different skies, but just as wonderful.

Traveling with SCSC

For those unfamiliar, the Stuttgart Community Spouses’ Club is a volunteer-run group that brings the Stuttgart community together through social events, charitable programs, and Trips & Tours—like this one. They handled the coach, hotel coordination, and timing, so all I had to do was show up, enjoy the ride, and meet new people.

Pertisau am Achensee: “Tyrol’s Fjord” Framed by Alpine Peaks

Pertisau sits on the western shore of Achensee in Tyrol, Austria, about 40 km (25 mi) northeast of Innsbruck in the Northern Alps. Cradled between the Karwendel and Rofan ranges, the village pairs emerald water with rugged peaks. Achensee—Tyrol’s largest lake, often nicknamed Tyrol’s fjord—sets the scene: sailboats, lakeside promenades, trailheads that fan into the mountains, and cross-country skiing in winter. A small, walkable village that makes a great base—whatever the season.

High viewpoint over turquoise Lake Achensee with Pertisau village below and snow-tipped peaks, Tyrol.
Achensee from above—Pertisau on the shore.

Our Hotel: aja Fürstenhaus am Achensee

We stayed right on the water at aja Fürstenhaus am Achensee (formerly Travel Charme Fürstenhaus). The hotel’s lakeside setting gives you balconies that face either Achensee or the Karwendel mountains, and a big wellness area—heated pools, saunas, fitness facilities—plus a restaurant, bar, wine cellar, and guest garden. Breakfast with a view? Absolutely.

Fürstenhaus Travel Charme hotel in Pertisau framed by rocky mountains.
Travel Charme Fürstenhaus Achensee in Pertisau with red window shutters, a wooden wing, manicured lawns, and mountain backdrop.
Cozy hotel lounge with a round glass-front fireplace, warm wood paneling, pendant bulbs, and red banquette seating.
Outdoor pool at an alpine hotel in Pertisau with mountain backdrop under a cloudy sky.
Terrace and gardens of a lakeside hotel in Pertisau with flower-decked balconies, cafe tables, and forested mountains under a bright blue sky.
Lakeside hotel and arched footbridge reflecting in a lily pond with Lake Achensee and mountains beyond, Pertisau, Tyrol.

Morning with the Herds: Pertisau’s Almabtrieb

We arrived on Almabtrieb day, after the herds had come down from the high pastures. The cows were already gathered in the meadows, wearing handmade headdresses—greens, flowers, carved plaques—and massive bells. With the church spire, village houses, and early-season snow on the peaks, it felt like stepping into a Tyrolean storybook. Many cows dozed in the grass—a well-earned pause before the final stretch home to the valley barns.

Decorated cow resting on grass with ornate headpiece and bell during Almabtrieb.
Flower-crowned cow with a large bell at an Almabtrieb cattle parade in Tyrol, Austria.
Cow with a floral crown and Madonna medallion on its headpiece; church and snowy peaks in the background.
Two flower-crowned cows with embroidered headpieces and bells at the Almabtrieb parade in Pertisau am Achensee, Tyrol.
Flower-crowned cows with bells at an Almabtrieb cattle parade on the village green in Tyrol.
Close portrait of a decorated cow with vibrant magenta flowers and evergreen crown at Almabtrieb in Tyrol.
Cow facing the camera wearing a circular floral wreath and small bell at an Almabtrieb parade in Tyrol.
Brown cow wearing a Tyrolean-eagle wooden medallion and bell at an Almabtrieb celebration.
Flower-crowned dairy cow with embroidered collar and large bell at Almabtrieb in Tyrol.

From Shore to Summit: Achensee to Zwölferkopf

After spending time with the decorated herds in the fields, we wandered down to the promenade along Achensee. Sailboats bobbed on turquoise water while snow-dusted peaks rose behind the shoreline towns. We followed the flat path, stopping at the piers and climbing the Hochsteg Pertisau viewing platform for a higher look over the lake.

Sailboats on emerald Achensee with snow-dusted mountains and soft clouds in the distance.
Clear green water of Lake Achensee along a rocky shore with a sailboat and pine-covered mountains in the background.
Marina and lakeside promenade with hotels on Lake Achensee in Pertisau.

Eventually we headed inland to the Karwendel Bergbahn, the village cable car. It whisked us up to Zwölferkopf (1,491 m / 4,892 ft), where the stunning lake spread out below and the Rofan ridges filled the skyline—so hard to look away. From there we followed the Circular Trail of Alpine Animals, a signed, family-friendly loop with playful stops introducing local wildlife like the alpine ibex, golden eagle, and marmot. Early snow still lingered—a sure sign it was time for the herds to come home. Midway we stopped at Bärenbad Alm (there’s also Alpengasthof Karwendel by the cable car)—because a mountain skyline makes any lunch taste better.

High viewpoint over turquoise Achensee with villages framed by alpine peaks, Tyrol.
Curving forest track leading toward snowy Karwendel peaks near Achensee, Tyrol.
Panorama of the Tyrolean Alps above Achensee—forested ridges and snow-dusted summits.
Traveler seated on an oversized wooden frame bench overlooking Achensee and snowy peaks.
Outdoor benches and wooden tables of an alpine hut terrace with flower boxes and snowy peaks in the distance.
Forested valley and rugged limestone peaks of the Karwendel Alps under clouds near Achensee.
Rustic alpine hut terrace with table and sweeping mountain scenery near Achensee, Tyrol.
Layered Tyrolean ranges with snow patches and pines at dusk near Achensee.

Dinner & A Night Stroll

Back in town we enjoyed a group dinner at the hotel’s Restaurant Laurentius—my pick: an organic Austrian steak filet with herb butter, a glass of red wine, and crisp potato wedges. Simple and delicious. Afterward, we took an evening walk through Pertisau—the lake was dark and still, the hotels glowing like lanterns.

Grand alpine hotel at night, its many balconies and towers glowing gold against a dark sky.
Nighttime view of lakeside hotels in Pertisau am Achensee, Tyrol—chalet-style balcony and a modern facade outlined with string lights, garden and white patio umbrellas glowing warmly.

Festival Day in Reith im Alpbachtal

The next morning, after an early lakeside walk and breakfast, we boarded the coach for Reith im Alpbachtal—known for flower-filled balconies, timber chalets, and a postcard-perfect village lake—Reither See. Set at the mouth of the Alpbachtal (Alpbach Valley) above the Inn River, Reith is compact and easy to explore. On Almabtrieb days, it swaps traffic for cowbells: stalls and stages line the streets while the herds parade through the town center.

Reith im Alpbachtal village and church reflected in a small lake with forested mountains behind.

Bauernmarkt, Almabtrieb & Kirchtagsfest

The annual September festival in Reith brings three traditions together over two days—Bauernmarkt (farmers’ market), Almabtrieb (cattle drive), and Kirchtagsfest (church festival). It’s among Tyrol’s largest cattle-drive celebrations, drawing visitors from from near and far.

Throughout the day, music and song drifted along the streets, and alphorn and accordion players took turns on the village greens. The market stalls filled the lanes—carved wooden trees and mushrooms, hand-turned bowls, jars of honey and beeswax soaps, felted slippers, and stalls with dirndls and Tyrolean hats. Their “medicinal” honey was the one thing I couldn’t pass up—a jar for the tea shelf back home.

We watched craftspeople at work—shaping wooden shingles, weaving baskets, carding wool, and tooling and stitching leather. We browsed the food stalls—warm pretzels and sausages; Tyrolean specialties like Kiachl (a deep-fried yeast-dough round, served sweet with jam or savory with sauerkraut) and Krapfen (jam-filled doughnuts); farm cheeses; and crates of crisp local apples.

Elder woman in traditional dress carding wool by hand at a heritage craft demonstration.
Rack of fresh soft pretzels (Brezeln) at the market in Reith im Alpbachtal.
Elder artisan using a drawknife to shave wood shingles beside a pile of fresh curls at a festival booth.
Alpine hotel in Reith im Alpbachtal with geranium-filled balconies and a sunny terrace.
Two musicians in lederhosen play diatonic accordions outside a flower-decked chalet at the Almabtrieb parade in Reith im Alpbachtal.
Hand-turned wooden trees, bowls, and kitchenware at the Reither Bauernmarkt crafts stall in Tyrol.
Alphorn ensemble in traditional dress performs on the village green at the Kirchtagsfest in Reith im Alpbachtal.
Traditional Tyrolean farmhouse in a green meadow with mountains near Reith im Alpbachtal.
Craftsman in a leather vest shaving a willow branch for basket weaving at an outdoor market stall.

When it was time, I found a spot along the procession route and waited for the first herd to round the corner—the Almabtrieb was underway at last. Flower-crowned cows with clanging bells trotted down the main street, guided by families in traditional dirndls and lederhosen and greeted by steady cheers from the crowd.

Herders in lederhosen lead flower-crowned cows through Reith im Alpbachtal during the Almabtrieb parade; one tips his hat to the crowd.
Decorated cows with embroidered headpieces and bells walk through Reith’s village center during the Almabtrieb.
Flower-crowned cows parade through Reith im Alpbachtal during the Reither Bauernmarkt Almabtrieb & Kirchtagsfest, led by herders.
Close view of decorated cow collars and bells during the Almabtrieb festival procession.
Herders guide decorated cows down the street during Almabtrieb in Reith im Alpbachtal.

I followed one herd to the watering trough and had a few unforgettable minutes to greet them up close—admiring the collars, bells, headdresses, and those wonderfully sweet faces—before they moved on to winter barns and valley fields.

Close portrait of a brown cow with embroidered browband, fir headdress, pink flowers, and a bell at the Reither Almabtrieb.
Curious young cow with small bell and fir sprigs stands within the herd at the Almabtrieb parade in Tyrol.
Close-up of a brown cow with ornate black embroidered headpiece and large bell at the Almabtrieb.
Two decorated cows touch noses, ribbons and fir crowns swaying, during the Almabtrieb in the Alpbachtal valley.
Decorated cows pass a chalet with flowered balconies and mountain views in Reith im Alpbachtal, Tyrol.

Later, I circled Reither See, an easy loop with beautiful views of the water, village rooftops, and the church rising above the shore. In one yard, I met a few curious cows that had already made it home.

I came across a full-blown beer garden with live music set up along a residential street by the lake—a perfect spot for an afternoon snack and a glass of Sturm (called Federweißer in Germany), the seasonal “new wine,” lightly sparkling and only partially fermented. As I ate, another surprise parade trotted by; at one point a flock of sheep even wandered into a yard before handlers eased them out. Laughter rose as people jumped up from the long benches and hurried over to see what was happening.

Cows, goats, sheep, riders on horseback—one parade after another. I couldn’t get enough.

Chalet-style apartments on a green hillside reflected in a calm pond with distant mountains.
Close portrait of a brown-and-white cow standing in a grassy yard near an alpine home.
Black-and-white street scene of festival stalls and people dining in front of a gabled farmhouse.
Traditional farmhouse with two tiers of flower boxes, set before trees and buses with a backdrop of rocky alpine peaks.
Close-up of a single red apple hanging on the tree with green leaves against a blue sky.
Shepherd drives a large flock of mixed-color sheep toward the camera during the festival.
Flock of sheep with bells moving through the street at Reith im Alpbachtal festival.
Flock of sheep bunch together near a flower-decked farmhouse in Reith im Alpbachtal during the festival.
Cow with evergreen crown and large brass bell; headpiece reads “Auf den Alpen ist es schön” during the Almabtrieb in Reith.
Traditional carved Alpine mask with horns, topped by a wreath and flowers, displayed at the Reither Bauernmarkt.
Young brown-and-white cow in a meadow in Reith im Alpbachtal with mountain views.

Final Thoughts

This SCSC overnight was everything I love about living in Germany: new friendships, alpine air, and a front-row seat to living traditions. If an Almabtrieb (autumn cattle drive) is on your list, Tyrol makes it wonderfully easy—and fun—to see one up close.

White-faced cow in colorful embroidered browband with flowers and bell at the Reith Almabtrieb.
Decorated brown cow wearing a large bell at the Almabtrieb parade in Reith im Alpbachtal, Tyrol.
Close portrait of a cow wearing an embroidered browband with fir, tinsel, and pink flowers at the Almabtrieb in Reith im Alpbachtal.

Getting There from Stuttgart

  • Stuttgart to Pertisau am Achensee: By car, about 4–4.5 hours depending on traffic and border waits (roughly 340 km / 211 mi).
  • Pertisau to Reith im Alpbachtal: About 30 minutes by car (roughly 20 km / 12 mi).

Austiran Toll note: If your route uses Austria’s motorways/expressways, you’ll need a toll sticker or vignette. The easiest option is the digital vignette via ASFINAG—or pick up a sticker at a gas station near the border and affix it to your windshield.

2025 Festival Dates (Verify Before You Go)

Tip: Arrive early for parking and parade spots; bring cash for market stalls; and pack layers—sun can be warm, shade and lifts can be chilly. Ear protection is helpful for little ones—the bells are gloriously loud.

More to Do If You’re Making it a Long Weekend

Around Pertisau & Achensee

Looking for more? Check the Achensee website for additional activities.

Cream-colored alpine villa with red roof in a meadow below snowcapped peaks near Achensee.
A big-mountain backdrop in Pertisau am Achensee.

Around Reith im Alpbachtal

  • Reitherkogelbahn: Ride the village cable car to panoramic trails and Juppi’s Enchanted Forest—a kid-friendly adventure loop.
  • Rattenberg for medieval lanes and traditional glass shops (10 min drive).
  • Alpbach: Often called Austria’s most beautiful village—traditional wooden chalets with flower-filled balconies and strollable streets (10 min drive).

More inspiration: visit the Alpbachtal website for trails, family activities, and events.

Patchwork of cornfields and farms on rolling hillsides in the Alpbachtal valley, Tyrol.
Golden fields, green slopes—late-summer colors in Reith im Alpbachtal.

Have you experienced an Almabtrieb or a similar “cows coming home” festival? What surprised you the most? Drop your questions (or your own tips!) in the comments below—I’m happy to help!

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2 responses to “Almabtrieb Magic in Austria: An Overnight in Pertisau am Achensee and Reith im Alpbachtal”

  1. cowboystarstruck6ba0a08bae Avatar
    cowboystarstruck6ba0a08bae

    Never thought I’d ever use the word “cute” to describe a cow, but I am using it now!! Sooooo cute 🥰

    Liked by 1 person

    Reply
    1. Robin Avatar
      Robin

      I know! They are soooo cute, especially all dressed up!

      Like

      Reply

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