FRAMED WITH WONDER

Robin Kory

Aspiring Photographer, Traveler at Heart

Germany & Austria Road Trip Part II: Eisriesenwelt, Burg Hohenwerfen, Königssee and Obersee

The first part of our Germany & Austria road trip took us through Augsburg, up to the Eagle’s Nest, and onward to Hallstatt and Salzburg. Along the way, we moved between historic cities, mountain viewpoints, and lakeside towns, enjoying the landscapes and history of the region as the unforgettable journey unfolded.

Salzburg’s old town rooftops with the Salzburg Cathedral domes and Hohensalzburg Fortress rising on the green hill behind.
One of those classic Salzburg views from above.

After Salzburg, the second part of our road trip carried us south and deeper into the Alps—leading us to Eisriesenwelt, the vast ice cave hidden inside the mountains near Werfen, up to the fortress walls of Burg Hohenwerfen overlooking the Salzach Valley, and to a familiar The Sound of Music filming location high above the valley. We ended this stretch of the trip at Königssee and nearby Obersee, where steep mountain walls rise straight from the water and the lakes’ emerald and turquoise colors feel almost unreal. These days brought together dramatic landscapes, well-known landmarks, and moments that were simply beautiful to experience in person.

Eisriesenwelt Ice Cave: Stepping Into the Mountain

Our first stop was Eisriesenwelt, the world’s largest ice cave, located near the town of Werfen. The cave system stretches for more than 42 kilometers (26 miles) inside Hochkogel Mountain, part of the Tennengebirge range, and was first discovered in 1879. Only a portion of it is accessible to visitors, but even that small section leaves a lasting impression.

Getting there is part of the experience. From the visitor center, it’s about a 20-minute uphill walk to the cable car (Seilbahn), followed by a short ride up the mountainside and another walk to the cave entrance at roughly 1,640 meters (about one mile) above sea level. The walk and cable car ride unfolded in thick fog, adding a sense of anticipation as the landscape slowly disappeared and reappeared along the way.

The modern Eisriesenwelt visitor center with wide stone steps leading up to a wooden building on a foggy day.
A carved wooden Eisriesenwelt sign showing mountains, a cable car, and an alpine hut, mounted on a dark wooden wall.
A person stands silhouetted at the entrance of a cave at Eisriesenwelt, looking out toward a fog-covered cliffside walkway.
A narrow mountain walkway clings to a rocky cliff at Eisriesenwelt, partially disappearing into dense fog.
Empty wooden picnic tables and closed umbrellas sit outside an alpine hut at Eisriesenwelt, surrounded by fog and tall pine trees.
Tall evergreen trees stand in the foreground with fog drifting across forested mountains in the distance near Eisriesenwelt.

Inside, the temperature stays right around freezing year-round, and the route involves climbing and descending hundreds of steps. The scale and darkness of the cave were striking. Visitors carry lanterns for light, and magnesium flares are used by the guides to briefly illuminate specific formations, revealing towering ice walls and sculpted shapes before fading back into shadow. The ice constantly melts and reforms, which means the cave changes slightly every year. Some of the formations naturally resemble familiar shapes, including one that looks remarkably like an elephant.

Thick ice columns and frozen drips form natural arches inside Eisriesenwelt, glowing softly under cave lighting.
A guide in a red jacket stands beside massive ice formations inside Eisriesenwelt, holding a flare to illuminate the cave walls.
A metal miner’s lantern resting on a wooden surface inside a cave, casting warm light against rough stone walls.
Visitors climbing a steep metal staircase inside Eisriesenwelt, surrounded by rugged cave walls and dim lighting.
A massive ice formation inside Eisriesenwelt, glowing pale blue beneath an arched rock ceiling.
A guide holding a flare stands in a large ice chamber at Eisriesenwelt, reflected in shallow water beneath towering ice columns.
A wide view of an ice-filled chamber at Eisriesenwelt, with a glowing ice mound and visitors standing along a metal walkway.
A guide walks along a smooth ice wall inside Eisriesenwelt, lightly touching the frozen surface as light reflects across it.
Visitors descend a staircase carved through ice inside Eisriesenwelt, surrounded by curved frozen walls and metal railings.
A smooth blue ice column descends from the cave ceiling into shallow water, reflecting against the rocky walls of Eisriesenwelt.
Sharp icicles hang from the ceiling inside Eisriesenwelt, catching the light against blue and white ice walls below.

It was fascinating to see the ice formations up close and to experience the scale of the cave in person. It was one of those experiences that stays with you long after you leave.

Burg Hohenwerfen: A Fortress Above the Salzach Valley

From Eisriesenwelt, we continued through the Salzach Valley to Burg Hohenwerfen, a nearly 900-year-old medieval fortress rising above the river and the town of Werfen. Built in the 11th century, the castle was part of a defensive network established by the Archbishops of Salzburg to control and protect this important alpine trade route. Reaching the castle is straightforward: an inclined elevator takes you up the steep hillside, and the walk back down offers sweeping views of the valley below.

Burg Hohenwerfen sits atop a forested hill, surrounded by steep green mountains under low clouds.

Inside the walls, there’s a lot to explore. We joined a guided tour that took us through the castle chapel, the bell tower, a former torture chamber, and rooms with preserved medieval frescoes. As the tour moved through the fortress, we passed between different levels of the castle, taking in views across the Salzach Valley and getting a sense of how the site functioned as a fortified stronghold.

Elsewhere within the castle grounds, visitors can explore the falconry museum and watch live birds-of-prey demonstrations, a tradition connected to the fortress’s historic role in hunting and defense. There’s also a tavern and a small medieval-style shop, adding to the experience of spending time within the walls.

Castle rooftops and towers of Burg Hohenwerfen overlook dense forest and steep mountain slopes in the distance.
A stone interior room at Burg Hohenwerfen features small windows, thick walls, wooden beams, and a hanging lantern.
Rusted iron spiked weights hang from chains inside a stone room at Burg Hohenwerfen.
A stone dungeon room at Burg Hohenwerfen features a barred floor opening, narrow windows, and hanging restraints.
A stone courtyard inside Burg Hohenwerfen is lined with gray buildings, wooden balconies, and red-and-white shutters.
An arched interior space at Burg Hohenwerfen features carved stone details, small columns, and a round window letting in soft light.
Traditional farmhouses sit on a grassy hillside bordered by dense evergreen forest below Burg Hohenwerfen.
A small wooden table with simple stools and a feather quill sits inside a wood-paneled historic room at Burg Hohenwerfen.
Gray castle buildings with red-and-white shutters and a small tower stand beneath a cloudy sky at Burg Hohenwerfen.
Low clouds drift across steep, forested mountains rising above green fields near the valley below Burg Hohenwerfen.
A long stone staircase curves upward through arched ceilings inside Burg Hohenwerfen, lit by hanging lanterns.
Gray castle buildings with red-and-white shutters and small towers rise above a stone courtyard at Burg Hohenwerfen.
The town of Werfen spreads across rolling green hills with forests and scattered houses under a cloudy sky.
A stone building with red-and-white shutters stands inside the grounds of Burg Hohenwerfen, framed by hedges and greenery.
A weathered medieval wall painting shows a standing figure holding a long staff or spear, with faded colors and worn plaster.
A large eagle with dark feathers and a sharp beak perches on a wooden post behind a wire enclosure at Burg Hohenwerfen.
A panoramic view shows the town of Werfen, winding roads, and the Salzach River far below Burg Hohenwerfen.
A tall gray tower with red-and-white shutters rises above the courtyard buildings at Burg Hohenwerfen.
A full suit of medieval armor stands against a stone wall at Burg Hohenwerfen, holding a shield marked with the castle’s name.
A wide view of Burg Hohenwerfen shows the fortress walls above landscaped gardens and paths on a hillside.

Outside the main tour route, the exhibition Mythos Jackl – Sorcerers and Witches in Salzburg looks at a darker chapter of regional history, focusing on witch trials and the fears and beliefs that shaped them in early modern Salzburg.

Life-sized figures stand beneath a large pentagram symbol inside a museum room at Burg Hohenwerfen.
Wooden figures and masks hang near a window inside Burg Hohenwerfen, arranged as part of a dark historical display.

Film fans may also recognize Burg Hohenwerfen as a filming location. Several scenes from Where Eagles Dare, starring Richard Burton and Clint Eastwood, were shot here. More recently, the fortress appeared in the Amazon original series The Man in the High Castle, where it was used as the Führer’s headquarters.

A vintage movie poster for “Where Eagles Dare” hangs on a wooden wall inside Burg Hohenwerfen.
A view of Burg Hohenwerfen shows the fortress centered on a wooded hill with layered mountain slopes behind it.

A Familiar View: The Sound of Music Trail

Before crossing back into Germany, we made one more stop in Werfen—this time for a completely different reason. Rather than hiking the full The Sound of Music Trail, we drove up to the upper viewpoint to take in the scenery. The marked trail itself begins in Werfen and follows a short out-and-back route across alpine meadows, leading to one of the filming locations where Maria von Trapp practices “Do-Re-Mi” with the children.

Even without hiking the entire route, the views were well worth the stop. Rolling meadows, dense forest, and rugged mountain faces stretched across the landscape, with Burg Hohenwerfen visible across the valley and framed by the surrounding Alps. It was a short stop, made even more enjoyable knowing its place in film history.

A steep Alpine mountainside covered in dense forest and bright green meadows sits beneath thick, low-hanging clouds.
A wooden display along the Sound of Music Trail in Werfen overlooks a green Alpine valley with scattered farmhouses and cloud-covered mountains in the distance.
Burg Hohenwerfen sits atop a wooded hill, backed by steep rocky mountains partially hidden by clouds.
Rolling green hills dotted with farmhouses and forests rise toward cloud-covered mountain peaks in the Austrian Alps.
A display image shows children in traditional Austrian clothing running across a grassy meadow with mountains in the background.
A grassy hillside in the foreground leads toward forested mountains and bright green meadows beneath heavy gray clouds.

Where the Mountains Meet the Water: Königssee

By late afternoon, we arrived at Königssee, our final destination for the day. Nestled within Berchtesgaden National Park, Königssee is the deepest lake in Bavaria, reaching 192 meters (630 feet), and is known for its remarkably clear, emerald-green water. There are no roads around the lake, and the surrounding mountains—especially the imposing Watzmann—rise sharply from the shoreline.

Local legend even adds a touch of folklore to the lake. In the tale of the Jungfrau vom Königssee, a poor young hunter’s assistant falls in love with the wealthy hunter’s daughter but is forced to leave when the father dies. When he later reaches Königssee, a white swan glides toward him and transforms into a maiden who shows him where to find treasure—first gold, and later the salt that would bring lasting prosperity.

A wide view of emerald-green lake water reflects wooden boathouses and a small lakeside village surrounded by forested hills.
Green hills dotted with Alpine houses sit beneath a steep, rocky mountain rising sharply into a cloudy sky.
Wooden boathouses line the edge of Königssee, with green reflections rippling across the calm water and forested hills behind.

The nearby municipality of Schönau am Königssee is closely tied to the lake. In addition to serving as the main access point to Königssee, Schönau is closely tied to winter sports and is home to the Königssee Luge Track—the world’s first artificially refrigerated ice track, used for luge, bobsleigh, and skeleton. Historically, the area was connected to forestry, alpine farming, and transport along the Königsseer Ache, the river that flows out of Königssee and through the valley. Today, the town relies largely on tourism, with guesthouses, shops, and restaurants clustered near the lake beneath steep mountain slopes.

Traditional alpine buildings line the waterfront at Königssee, reflected in the calm lake with wooden boat piers in the foreground.
A white Alpine house with green shutters, flower-filled balconies, and a small wooden outbuilding set against mountain scenery.
A historic wooden mill building sits beside a fast-flowing green mountain stream surrounded by dense forest near Königssee.
A wooden hotel building labeled “Hotel Königssee” stands beside a stone monument in a paved square.
A warmly lit restaurant dining room with wooden tables and chairs, patterned curtains, framed artwork, and hanging chandeliers.
A fluffy brown alpaca stands in green grass holding a leaf in its mouth, looking directly toward the camera.
A traditional Alpine guesthouse with blue shutters, wooden balconies, flower boxes, and a sign reading “Pension Bichl.”
A bronze ibex statue stands on a stone pedestal surrounded by greenery, with alpine trees and buildings in the background.
A wooden Alpine building with green shutters and flower boxes stands beside a small plaza with benches and shops.
A broad mountain ridge rises behind a meadow and clustered Alpine houses under a partly cloudy sky.
Colorful alpine buildings and restaurants line a cobblestone street near the Hotel Seehaus Königssee, with menu boards and pedestrians along the walkway.
A traditional Alpine guesthouse with white walls, dark wood balconies, flower boxes, and a lush garden in the foreground.
A woolly sheep stands in a grassy meadow, facing the camera with grass blurred behind it.
A stone obelisk stands in a paved plaza at the Königssee boat landing, with wooden shelters, boats, and forested mountains behind it.

That evening, we stayed at Alpenpension Bergidyll, a traditional and welcoming guesthouse near Königssee. The rooms were comfortable and full of character, with vintage furnishings that suited the setting perfectly. When we arrived, we were greeted by the resident dog, who seemed to take its role as a friendly welcome committee seriously. In the morning, we enjoyed a classic Austrian breakfast, and from our balcony we had sweeping views across the valley. The sunsets were unforgettable, with the mountain peaks glowing like fire as the light faded.

A white Alpine guesthouse with dark wooden balconies, flower boxes, and a painted sign above the entrance.
A painted mural showing a man in traditional Bavarian clothing holding a glass while a woman stands beside a table of glasses.
A bright guest room with a wooden bed, small sitting table, upholstered chair, and large windows overlooking greenery.
A cozy Alpine dining room with wooden benches, pink tablecloths, lace curtains, and potted plants along the windows.
Mountain peaks glowing orange from the setting sun above a quiet Alpine village.
A wide view of green meadows, scattered houses, and forested mountains under a cloudy sky.
Looking out over the landscape near Königssee from our guestroom.

After settling in, we enjoyed dinner and ice cream at Café Brunneck, a great way to end a full day before an early start the next morning.

A multi-story alpine-style building with wooden balconies, flower boxes, and a terrace labeled Brunneck Café, set against green hills near Königssee.
A dessert served in a glass dish with whipped cream, wafer cookies, and chopped nuts.
A plate of bread dumpling topped with herbs and an edible flower, served in a creamy mushroom sauce.

Gliding Across the Emerald Waters of Königssee

The following day began with a boat trip across Königssee aboard an electric-powered boat, used to preserve the lake’s water quality. The boat travels the length of the lake with several designated stops, and our plan was to continue all the way to Salet first, then walk to Obersee and Röthbachfall (Röthbach Waterfall) before stopping at St. Bartholomä on the return trip. Salet sits at the far southern end of the lake and serves as the starting point for hikes, while a smaller stop at Kessel is made only on request and is primarily used by hikers.

Mountains and trees reflect softly in the still green water of Königssee near the Salet landing.
Gentle reflections from Salet.

As the boat moved steadily south, the scenery became the focus. The water was a deep, clear emerald green, reflecting the surrounding mountains almost perfectly, broken only by the wake of the boat. Steep rock walls rose directly from the water, interrupted at times by grassy meadows along the shoreline, while dense forests climbed up the mountainsides above.

A traditional electric passenger boat glides across emerald-green water with a forested mountainside behind it.
A small wooden boathouse sits at the water’s edge beneath towering forested mountains near the Salet landing on Königssee.
Calm green water stretches across Königssee with steep forested mountains and a thin waterfall visible in the distance.
Steep rocky mountains covered in trees reflect clearly in the calm green water of Königssee.
A massive rocky mountainside covered in trees rises steeply from the green waters of Königssee.
A narrow waterfall pours down a steep forested cliff and flows directly into the emerald-green waters of Königssee.

Along the way, the captain pointed out several notable landmarks. We passed Christlieger Island, also known as St. John’s Island—the only island on Königssee—marked by a statue of St. John of Nepomuk, the patron saint of boatmen. The statue commemorates the safe rescue of four passengers after a boating accident in 1711.

Steep forested cliffs rise directly from the dark green water of Königssee, with rocky faces visible through the trees.

High on the slopes of the Lattengebirge range, the Sleeping Witch (Schlafende Hexe) is a rock formation whose outline resembles a woman lying on her back. According to local legend, the figure represents a witch who was turned to stone as punishment for her misdeeds, left behind as a lasting presence in the landscape. Whether taken as legend or simply as a distinctive natural formation, it’s a familiar landmark along the Königssee route once it’s pointed out.

A jagged mountain ridge in the Lattengebirge forms the outline of a reclining figure known as the Sleeping Witch above Königssee.

The boat also paused at the Echo Wall (Echowand), where a flugelhorn—a brass instrument similar to a trumpet—is traditionally played to demonstrate the natural echo bouncing off the rock face, with a hat passed around afterward for donations.

Salet, Obersee, and the Hike to Röthbachfall

Salet sits at the far southern end of Königssee and is the final stop on the southern boat route. There’s no village here—just a small landing point, forest paths, a couple of seasonal mountain huts, and surroundings that immediately feel quieter and more remote than the busy northern shore. It serves mainly as a starting point for hikes, with trails leading toward Obersee and deeper into the surrounding alpine landscape.

A grassy alpine meadow stretches below a steep rocky mountainside rising above Königssee.
A traditional alpine restaurant with green shutters and outdoor seating sits beneath towering rocky mountains.
A close-up of a brown and white cow lying in grass and looking directly toward the camera.
Pale pink wildflowers grow among moss-covered rocks in a shaded forest setting.
A steep limestone mountainside rises above a bright green alpine meadow dotted with small trees.
Brown and white cows rest in a grassy clearing surrounded by rocky terrain and forested mountain slopes.

Disembarking at Salet, we followed the well-marked path toward Obersee. After a short walk, the lake opened up in front of us, small enough that you could easily see from one side to the other. The water shifted to vivid turquoise, reflecting the mountains and trees with remarkable clarity. A wooden boathouse lines the shore, while across the water an alpine meadow, a clear view of Röthbachfall, and steep rock walls rise toward the surrounding peaks.

A wide view of Obersee shows green mountains and a bright meadow reflected in the still lake surface.
A small wooden boathouse sits at the water’s edge with a narrow dock extending into the clear lake, backed by steep forested mountains.

From there, the path continues along the western shoreline of Obersee, leading south toward the far end of the lake. With every step, the views shifted—calm water, steep cliffs, and waterfalls spilling down the mountainside across the lake.

Two narrow waterfalls cascade down a forested rock face and reflect in the calm water below.
Leafy branches frame the turquoise surface of Obersee, with soft ripples visible beneath the water.
Two people stand in the foreground with Obersee behind them, reflecting steep green mountains and a distant waterfall.
A steep alpine cliff rises above the turquoise waters of Obersee, with a small meadow and wooden hut visible along the shoreline.
A wide mountain amphitheater surrounds Obersee, with steep cliffs and a bright green meadow reflected in the lake.

At the southern end, we stopped at Fischunkelalm. Sitting there with a snack and a glass of raspberry buttermilk made from local cow’s milk, we took in sweeping views of the lake and surrounding peaks—one of those moments where the scenery alone is enough.

A narrow path leads through a grassy meadow toward the edge of Obersee, where a person stands facing the water and mountains beyond.
A wooden alpine hut sits in a green meadow with people gathered outside, while Röthbachfall cascades down a steep cliff in the background.
A glass of buttermilk sits on a wooden table with Obersee and steep mountain cliffs blurred in the background.
A calm alpine lake reflects steep, forested mountains and rocky peaks under low clouds, with grassy meadow and tree stumps in the foreground at Obersee.
A small wooden boathouse rests at the edge of Obersee, reflected in the turquoise water with forested cliffs rising behind it.
A calm alpine lake reflects steep forested cliffs and cloud-covered mountain peaks under an overcast sky.

From Obersee, we continued on toward Röthbachfall, an out-and-back hike of about 40–45 minutes each way through forest and meadow. The path opens into a wide alpine basin with grazing cows, steep rock walls, and the waterfall pouring down the mountainside beyond. At roughly 470 meters (1540 feet), Röthbachfall is the highest waterfall in Germany and among the tallest in Europe, fed by water flowing from the Steinernes Meer, or “Sea of Stones,” a vast high-alpine limestone plateau above the valley. The combination of mountains, meadow, cows, and cascading water made the setting feel like a mountain wonderland.

Rocky alpine terrain with wild grass and trees sits beneath towering mountains partially covered by low clouds.
A brown and white cow with curved horns rests in green grass, facing the camera with another cow lying behind it.
A tall waterfall plunges down a sheer rock face into a grassy valley below, surrounded by dense forest.
A rocky alpine meadow dotted with moss-covered stones sits below forested slopes and jagged mountain peaks under low clouds.
Alpine cows graze and rest in a green meadow with scattered rocks and steep mountains rising
A tall waterfall cascades down a steep rock face into a green alpine basin, with a line of evergreen trees and grazing cows spread across the meadow below.

St. Bartholomä: A Historic Stop on Königssee

After returning by boat to St. Bartholomä, we spent time exploring the lakeside church complex, best known for its distinctive red onion domes. A church has stood on this site since the 12th century, though the present Baroque building dates to the late 17th century and is dedicated to St. Bartholomew the Apostle, the patron saint of farmers and tanners.

Nearby buildings once formed part of a royal hunting lodge used by Bavarian kings, who came to the area for hunts in the surrounding mountains. Today, visitors can explore the church, walk along the lakeshore, and take in the dramatic backdrop of steep rock walls rising directly behind the site. As we waited for the boat back, cold rain and wind moved in, turning the return crossing into a brisk and slightly rough ride—a clear reminder of how quickly weather can change in the mountains.

The onion-domed Church of St. Bartholomä sits on the edge of Königssee with steep rocky mountains rising behind it.
Low alpine buildings sit in a grassy clearing near St. Bartholomä with dramatic mountain cliffs rising behind them.
Visitors gather outside the Fischerei St. Bartholomä, a rustic wooden restaurant with flower boxes and outdoor seating.
A wide gravel path leads straight through a dense green forest with tall trees lining both sides and moss-covered logs along the ground.
The Church of St. Bartholomä stands beside calm green water as visitors gather along the shoreline beneath dense forest.
A wide alpine meadow stretches toward steep gray mountain peaks partially covered by clouds near St. Bartholomä.
The Church of St. Bartholomä and nearby wooden buildings reflect in the green waters of Königssee beneath rugged mountains.
The richly decorated main altar of the Church of St. Bartholomä stands beneath a pale pink and white stucco ceiling.
An ornate wooden gallery with painted panels curves above simple wooden pews inside the Church of St. Bartholomä.
A close view of the white walls and red onion domes of the Church of St. Bartholomä against a forested mountainside.
The red-domed pilgrimage church of St. Bartholomä stands beside a wooden boathouse on the edge of Königssee, with visitors gathered along the shore and mountains rising behind.

Jennerbahn and Views Over Königssee

To close out our time in the area, we took the Jennerbahn up Jenner Mountain, one of the most accessible viewpoints above Königssee. The cable car brings visitors to the upper station at around 1,800 meters (5,906 feet), just below the summit, making it an easy way to reach high alpine scenery without a long hike.

The modern Jennerbahn base station building with glass windows and stone walls sits at the edge of a paved plaza, backed by dense green forested hillsides.
A modern mountain building with a terrace clings to a steep grassy slope, overlooking a vast alpine valley crossed by narrow hiking trails.

From the upper station, we followed the Königsblick trail for the final stretch up to the summit cross at 1,874 meters (6,148 feet), where wide-open views stretch across Königssee, the Watzmann massif, and the surrounding Berchtesgaden Alps. Looking down at the winding trails, lake, and layered peaks was a fitting way to reflect on just how much ground we had covered—both physically and visually—over the past few days.

Green alpine ridges and forested slopes roll across the landscape, with pale hiking paths tracing their way through the terrain.
Two hikers walk along a narrow mountain trail surrounded by trees, with a wide alpine valley and rugged peaks in the background.
A white alpine flower with a yellow center grows among green leaves in the mountain landscape.
A narrow gravel path curves along a rocky hillside bordered by grass and small trees, with distant mountain peaks visible beyond.
Königssee appears far below as a deep blue lake nestled between steep forested mountains and rocky cliffs.
Purple and yellow alpine flowers grow among grasses and rocks in the foreground, with layered blue mountain ridges fading into the distance behind them.
A sweeping alpine valley of rolling green meadows and dark evergreen forests stretches toward rugged, snow-dusted mountain peaks under a cloudy sky.
A helicopter carries a suspended load over forested mountain slopes above the valley.
Steep rocky cliffs and forested ridges descend into a wide alpine valley, with snow-covered mountains rising in the distance.
A wooden summit cross stands against a muted sky with the sun glowing behind it.
A steep stone and dirt path descends between rocks and trees, guided by rope handrails, with a wide valley stretching beyond.

Final Thoughts

This part of the journey highlighted just how much variety fits into a relatively small region. From icy darkness to sunlit lakes, from medieval walls to alpine trails, each stop offered a different perspective on the landscapes and history of Austria and southern Germany. Together, these places made an already memorable trip that began in Part I feel even more special, filling the journey with experiences and landscapes we’ll never forget.

Clear, still water reflects forested slopes and rocky mountain walls along the edge of Obersee.
Along the quiet shoreline of Obersee.

Location & Getting There

For this part of the trip, driving continued to be the most flexible option—especially in the Alps, where weather, timing, and remote locations can make public transportation more complicated. Roads were well maintained, distances between stops were reasonable, and having a car made it easy to adjust plans along the way.

Although this section of the journey begins after we left Salzburg, the distance from Stuttgart to Salzburg is included below for readers who may want to skip Part I of our adventure and start here.

Approximate driving distances and times:

  • Stuttgart → Salzburg: ~380 km (236 miles), about 3.5-4 hours
  • Salzburg → Werfen (Eisriesenwelt / Burg Hohenwerfen / The Sound of Music Trail): ~45 km (28 miles), about 35-45 minutes
  • Werfen → Königssee (Schönau am Königssee): ~55 km (34 miles), about 45-60 minutes
  • Königssee → Stuttgart: ~390 km (242 miles), about 4-4.5 hours

If you’re driving into Austria, an Austrian motorway vignette is required for most highways. These can be purchased online in advance or at fuel stations near the border, and short-term options work well for trips like this.

A Few Tips for This Part of the Trip

Many of the general planning tips from Part I—including advice on weather, seasonal closures, packing layers, and transportation—apply just as much here. If you’re starting your trip in Salzburg or continuing on from earlier stops, it’s worth reviewing those before heading into the Alps.

For this portion of the journey, a few additional things stood out:

  • Weather and seasonal schedules play a big role in the Alps. Ice caves, boat crossings, and cable cars may be affected by fog, rain, wind, or seasonal closures, so checking ahead and staying flexible can make a big difference—particularly for Eisriesenwelt and the Jennerbahn.
  • Book Eisriesenwelt tickets online if possible. If you plan to visit the ice cave and use the cable car, booking the combined ticket online is cheaper than buying tickets on-site.
  • Plan Königssee boat trips early in the day. Boat rides are a highlight, but lines can grow quickly in busy seasons. Arriving early makes it easier to continue all the way to Salet if you plan to walk to Obersee and beyond.
  • Wear comfortable walking shoes. Even without long hikes, places like Eisriesenwelt, Burg Hohenwerfen, and Obersee involve uneven paths, stairs, and steady walking.
  • Souvenirs here tend to be simple and regional. Alpine dairy products, local schnapps, and small handcrafted items are easy to find and make meaningful reminders of the trip.

Have you traveled through this part of Austria or southern Germany? I’d be curious to know what stood out to you—feel free to share your experiences or questions in the comments below.

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