FRAMED WITH WONDER

Robin Kory

Aspiring Photographer, Traveler at Heart

A Day Trip to Hirsau: Monastery Ruins and a Hike in the Black Forest

View of the Nagold River flowing through Hirsau with red flowers in the foreground and forested hills behind.
Elevated view of Hirsau, Germany, with its stone bridge crossing the Nagold River and traditional houses nestled against the hillside.
The historic stone bridge over the Nagold River in Hirsau, Germany, with houses and a café along the riverside.

Tucked into the Nagold Valley in Baden-Württemberg, Germany, the village of Hirsau is framed by forested hills and centuries of history. Once one of the most important centers of Benedictine life in Europe, today it’s best known for its dramatic monastery ruins and forest trails that lead deep into the Black Forest.

Hirsau is now officially a district of Calw, a small town just to the south and famous for its timber-framed houses and as the birthplace of Nobel Prize–winning author Hermann Hesse, author of classics such as Siddhartha and Steppenwolf. The Nagold Valley has long been a cultural corridor, connecting settlements along the Nagold River with the surrounding Black Forest. For centuries, Calw prospered as a trading town, while Hirsau rose to prominence as a religious and intellectual hub.

Breakfast in the Cloister: Café im Kloster

We started our morning at Café im Kloster, located right inside the grounds of the Monastery of St. Peter and Paul in Hirsau. The café is charming—its timber-framed walls and outdoor tables set near the ruins make it a memorable place to begin the day. If you want breakfast here, reservations are a must. Since we hadn’t reserved, the usual breakfast platters were already gone, but the staff offered us a warm, hearty quiche instead. It’s also a good spot to try traditional desserts like Black Forest cherry cake if you’re visiting later in the day.

Café im Kloster housed in a traditional half-timbered building with wooden shutters and banner.
Fresh berry tart topped with raspberries, blueberries, currants, and mint leaves at Café im Kloster.
Cozy interior of Café im Kloster in Hirsau Monastery with timber-framed walls, chandelier, and tables set with teacups and plates.
Chocolate cakes topped with fresh raspberries on display at Café im Kloster.
Entrance of Café im Kloster in a half-timbered building at Hirsau Monastery, decorated with flowers and rustic signs.

The Monastery of St. Peter and Paul: From Reform to Ruin

Founded in 1091, the Monastery of St. Peter and Paul—often called Hirsau Monastery—became one of the most influential Benedictine abbeys in Germany. It embraced reforms from France that called for stricter discipline while also encouraging charity and the arts. At its height, about 150 monks lived here, and Hirsau’s influence reached far beyond the Black Forest.

Today, the monastery lies in ruins, but the site is still impressive. Massive red sandstone walls, cloister arches, and gabled facades rise above the valley floor, hinting at the abbey’s former scale. Much of the complex was destroyed during the Nine Years’ War in 1692, when French troops set fire to the monastery, leaving the ruins that stand today.

Clock tower and ruined stone walls of Hirsau Monastery with Renaissance gables in the background.
Cobbled street leading through the grounds of Hirsau Monastery, lined with historic half-timbered buildings.
White plastered building with wooden shutters marked “Klosterkeller,” beside the Hunting Lodge ruins in Hirsau.
Sunflowers growing near half-timbered buildings and tower at Hirsau Monastery.
Hirsau Monastery church seen through a stone archway, highlighting its rose window and steeple.
Tall Romanesque tower of Hirsau Monastery rising above trees and nearby houses.
Octagonal red sandstone tower with arched gateway at Hirsau Monastery.
Half-timbered gatehouse at Hirsau Monastery with green shutters and arched stone entrance.
Half-timbered building with an archway at Hirsau Monastery, framed by trees and blooming flowers.
Ruins of Hirsau Monastery’s Hunting Lodge rising above nearby houses with tiled roofs.
Row of arched cloister walls in Hirsau Monastery ruins with the Romanesque tower in the background.

The Owl Tower

Dating to the 12th century, the Owl Tower (Eulenturm) is one of the oldest surviving parts of the Monastery of St. Peter and Paul. Constructed in the Romanesque style, it originally served as a bell tower. Today, its sturdy stone form still defines the monastery’s skyline and is one of Hirsau’s most recognizable landmarks.

Romanesque tower of Hirsau Monastery rising above a meadow and trees.

The Chapel of St. Mary

The Chapel of St. Mary (Marienkapelle) was built between 1508 and 1516 in the late Gothic style. Originally used as a chapel for the sick and later as a library, it’s one of the few monastery buildings that survived the 1692 destruction. Today, its tall, two-story walls still stand strong, serving as Hirsau’s Protestant parish church.

Exterior of the Gothic-style Hirsau Monastery church with rose window and stone ruins in front.
Interior of Hirsau Monastery's Chapel of St. Mary with vaulted ceiling, stained glass windows, and wooden pews.
Side view of the red sandstone Chapel of St. Mary at Hirsau with stained-glass windows and tall steeple.

The Hunting Lodge

In the late 16th century, Duke Ludwig of Württemberg built the Hunting Lodge (Jagdschloss) at Hirsau, introducing Renaissance style to the monastic grounds. Though much of it was destroyed by fire in 1692, its decorative gables and facades still rise above the valley, a reminder of how the site continued to evolve beyond its medieval roots.

Traditional half-timbered house beside the ruins of the Hunting Lodge at Hirsau Monastery.
Ornate twin gables of the ruined Hunting Lodge at Hirsau Monastery, weathered stone with circular windows.
Ruined Hunting Lodge wall with a round tower at Hirsau Monastery.

Guided tours of the Hirsau monasteries—the large Monastery of St. Peter and Paul and the smaller Aurelius Monastery (see more details below)—help bring the history to life, from architectural walks to torchlit evening tours that weave in local legends and stories.

Hiking the Schweinbachtal

Leaving the ruins behind, we set out on an 11.3 km / 7 mi Komoot hike through the Schweinbachtal, a side valley branching off from the Nagold. The trail wound through the tranquil, leafy forest, following the Schweinbach stream as it tumbled over mossy stones. We passed clearings where sunlight filtered through the trees and stretches where the path narrowed to little more than a track between tall vegetation. Stepping stones carried us back and forth across the stream—fun when the water is low, but potentially risky after heavy rain.

We somehow missed the old arched stone bridge (hopefully it’s still standing!), but we did run into plenty of stinging nettles along the way. They really do sting, though the burn fades quickly.

Branches of a rowan tree with clusters of red berries overlooking the Black Forest hills.
Mossy stone steps crossing a small stream in the forest at Schweinbachtal.
Narrow forest path winding through moss-covered rocks and green undergrowth in the Schweinbachtal.
Towering trees in the Schweinbachtal forest with ferns covering the ground.
Streambed covered with mossy rocks winding through dense green forest in the Schweinbachtal.
Green forest floor covered with moss and ferns beneath tall trees.
Close-up of stinging nettle leaves and delicate blossoms in the forest near Hirsau, Germany.
Old stone fountain with moss, flowers, and wrought iron gate in Hirsau.

Climbing out of the valley, the forest opened up to views over Altburg and the distant ridges of the Swabian Jura (Schwäbische Alb). From the plateau, the trail dropped back down and wound through shady Black Forest paths toward Hirsau.

Altburg church tower with clock face seen across golden grain fields and forest.
Border of a grain field with stalks tinged in purple and wildflowers at the edge.
Purple wildflowers growing among golden grain stalks.
Hiker with a backpack walking along a narrow path surrounded by tall spruce trees in the Schweinbachtal forest.

Trail Tips:

  • Difficulty: Rated Expert on Komoot—expect steep climbs and technical sections.
  • Water Levels: Stream crossings may be tricky or dangerous after rain.
  • Clothing: Wear long sleeves and pants to protect against stinging nettles.
  • Family-Friendly? Not recommended for children.
  • Alternatives: For easier options, see other Komoot hikes in the Calw area.

More to Explore Near Hirsau

If you have more time in the area, consider visiting:

  • Town of Calw – Just 3 km / 1.9 miles (about a 5-minute drive) from Hirsau, Calw is known for its timber-framed houses, lively market square, and riverside setting. The Hermann Hesse Museum is currently closed for renovation until 2026, but visitors can still enjoy strolling the historic old town or following one of the marked Hesse-themed walking trails through the area.
  • Burgruine Zavelstein – About 9 km / 5.6 miles (about a 15-minute drive) from Hirsau, the ruins of Zavelstein Castle rise above the Teinach Valley. From the tower, you get sweeping views of the Black Forest, the surrounding hills, and the half-timbered town of Zavelstein below. The site is especially popular in spring when the nearby nature reserve bursts into bloom with thousands of wild crocuses during the annual Zavelsteiner Crocus Blossom.
  • Alpakahof Beinberg – About 8 km / 5 miles (a 10-minute drive) from Hirsau, this alpaca farm offers guided walks with their gentle alpacas—a memorable way to experience the Black Forest at a slower pace. The farm also has a small shop with alpaca wool products and local specialties. Note that alpaca hikes are closed in winter and run only on selected days the rest of the year, so check opening times in advance.
  • Aurelius Monastery & Monastery Museum – The smaller and older of Hirsau’s two monasteries, with a Romanesque church and a museum that shares the story of monastic life and local history.
Exterior of the Klostermuseum in Hirsau, a white half-timbered building with a red-tiled roof.
The Klostermuseum in Hirsau offers a closer look at the site’s fascinating history.
Romanesque Church of St. Aurelius in Hirsau, Germany, with a steeply pitched roof of weathered red tiles and a small garden in front.
The Romanesque Church of St. Aurelius—Hirsau’s earlier monastery, dating back to the 11th century.

Location & Getting There

Hirsau is about 46 km / 29 miles west of Stuttgart—roughly a 40-minute drive by car.

By public transport, the trip takes around 1 hour 30 minutes: regional trains connect from Stuttgart to towns such as Weil der Stadt or Pforzheim, with onward buses to Calw and Hirsau. The journey is fully covered by the Deutschland-Ticket, making it an easy and affordable day trip. For up-to-date schedules and connections, check the DB Navigator app or the VVS app.

Visitor Tip: The monastery sites are open daily, but the museums and exhibitions have limited hours and are closed from November through March. Be sure to check current opening times before your visit.

Final Thoughts

Our day in Hirsau brought together history, nature, and the quiet beauty of the Black Forest. After roaming the monastery ruins and tackling the forest paths above the Schweinbach, we wrapped up the day tired in the best way—the perfect finish to a memorable day. But with Calw just next door, alpaca walks nearby, and endless Black Forest trails still waiting, we know this won’t be our last visit to the area.

Have you explored this part of the Black Forest? Share your favorite spots—or feel free to drop any questions about planning a visit—in the comments below!

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